Oil Level

The oil level should be checked whilst the engine is warm (at normal running temperature). The motorcycle must also be upright when you check the oil level. Fortunately it is possible to check the level whilst you are sitting on the bike. Sit on the bike for a couple of minutes before you start checking to allow the oil to level. Unscrew the filler cap/dipstick; it's on the right-hand side of the bike on the upper crankcase. Wipe the dipstick clean, place it back into the engine, but don't screw it in. Take it back out and check that the level falls between the upper and lower level marks. If it is below the lower mark, you should top it up prior to riding again. Use API grade SE, SF or SG motorbike oil with a viscosity of SAE 10W40 grade. Don't use car oil; it contains additives to reduce friction. Your clutch lives in that oil and it really won't appreciate it. If you do carry out an oil change, and replace the filter, try to use a genuine Honda replacement filter.

After checking the oil level, again wipe the dipstick clean and place it back in the engine. Screw it down so that it is hand tight only.

Brake Fluid level/Pad wear

The brake fluid level will drop as the pads wear.

To check the front brake reservoir, the bike needs to be standing level. You can't miss it; it's right in front of you when you sit on the bike! The level should fall somewhere between the upper and lower marks. If the reservoir needs topping up, remove the two screws from the top and carefully lift off the cap (be careful not to drop the diaphragm). Fill the reservoir with DOT 4 brake fluid, be careful not to overfill. Take care not to spill any fluid as it will strip painted surfaces. Ensure the diaphragm is position correctly as you replace the cap.

Apparently, the small cutout on the right side of the Seat Cowling is for viewing the brake fluid level for the rear brake. It's useless. I would recommend removing the Seat Cowl. Ensure the bike is level. The level of the fluid should again be between the upper and lower marks (see yellow arrows in diagram). If it falls below this mark, unscrew the cap and top up using DOT 4 brake fluid. Again, make sure the diaphragm is correctly positioned before screwing the cap back down.

Brake pad wear is a little trickier to view. The wear marks on the front pads have to be viewed from below the calipers (so you can see the pads). Look upwards from the front of the bike, you may need to lay on the floor. The wear marks are as illustrated in the image (below, left). If the groove is hardly visible then the pads need replacing. Viewing the wear marks on the rear pads is more difficult. It's even more difficult to photograph, so excuse the poor quality! Look at the rear brake caliper from the rear right-hand side of the bike. You may need to rotate the rear wheel so that there are no spokes in the way. The wear marks are two small black indents. I have exaggerated one of them in the photograph (left) to help with clarity, the other mark is not visible. If the abrasive material is getting near or has reached the wear line, then the pads need replacing.

Please be aware that if you are using aftermarket pads, then the wear marks may be different. Brake hoses and pads may need changing on older bikes. Braided hoses are always good!

Coolant Level

The fluid level should be checked when the engine is up to temperature and the bike is standing level (in the image my bike is on its side stand, so the level appears to be too low). To check the coolant level, look upwards from below the right-hand pillion peg, you should be able to see the coolant header tank. It is far easier to remove the Seat Cowl though. If the coolant is seen to be below the lower mark the reservoir needs to be filled. This should be done with a mixture of 50% distilled water and 50% antifreeze (corrosion inhibited ethylene glycol). This can be purchased pre-mixed, I used Putoline Ready-Mix last time. Always fill up this remote reservoir, never attempt to fill the coolant by removing the radiator pressure cap. The Seat Cowling must be removed to access the filler cap on the header tank. Remove the rubber cap on the header tank; fill to the correct level with the mixture described above. Take care not to overfill or spill any coolant, as it will damage paintwork.

On the subject of cooling, the position of the lower radiator makes it prone to becoming clogged with road crud. This blocks airflow to the radiator, which also has a cooling fan behind it. Ultimately, this can lead to overheating problems. To prevent this, an occasional clean is required.

You will need to remove the Radiator Cover. Use a stiff brush to remove road dirt from the grill on the radiator cover. There are actually two meshes, in slightly different positions to give good protection. If the grill is badly blocked, it can be disassembled for cleaning by removing the four screws at the corners. If the radiator itself looks blocked, use a brush to gently clean the worst of the dirt from the fins. Do not use a wire brush as you may damage the fins, avoid using a pressure washer too. Once you have done this, blow compressed air through the radiator from behind. I would advise wearing some eye protection as quite a lot of dust may be produced.

Battery

The V4 engine takes a fair amount of spinning over to start. For this reason it is important to ensure the battery remains in a good state of charge. If your battery seems to go flat very quickly, it could be an old battery (see Buying an NC30) , or it could be a sign of Regulator/Rectifier problems. Having an alarm fitted or only riding for short distances at a time (or at worst, both) can drain the battery rapidly. I have bought a Datatool Motorcycle Charger. Fundamentally, it's the same as the Optimate product, but Datatool assure us that their product is definitely suitable to use if you have one of their alarms fitted. The charger also comes with leads that you can leave permanently connected to the battery. You just run the other end of the lead to a convenient point of access on the bike, so you can plug the charger in. I've run mine to the cutout in the Seat Cowl for accessing the fuel tap. This saves having to remove body panels every time you want to charge the battery. Standard crocodile clips are also provided. The advantage of this type of charger is that you can plug it in and leave it. After charging the battery up, it will maintain it at a constant state of charge for as long as it is connected. Visit the Datatool Website for further details.