Before reading the following, your attention is drawn to the Disclaimer.

This page primarily deals with setting up and registering a bike you have imported yourself. Please see Page 2 for a general buying guide.

If, like me, you were fortunate enough to come across a UK spec NC30, then congratulations! There are some parts of this section that do not apply to you.

How can I tell at a glance?

If you are unsure whether the bike you have found is UK spec or an import, check the following:

Frame and Engine Numbers are by far the most conclusive indication. There are only two types of standard paint scheme available for the UK model. Japanese bikes come in a multitude of colours. Curiously, the designers decided on white wheels for the UK bike, yet overseas models can have black or red wheels, as well as white. Obviously the design team hadn't visited Great Britain’s roads on a wet Monday morning. I have noticed that labels like the chain wear measure are in Japanese on import bikes, this is a fairly minor point though. If it's in English, don't take it as a cert that you have found an official UK bike! Have a look to see if an oil cooler is present too. If it isn’t this is an indication that the bike has been imported, but again not a finite conclusion.

Importing My Own

You can buy a bike directly from an Importer, or, even import your own. If you do this, then you will have to register and set the bike up yourself. It is important to note that most imports are second-hand bikes; they have been ridden in Japan. The following are notes on preparing an imported NC30. This is a fairly comprehensive collection of the information I built up through talking to dealerships and reading reviews whilst looking into buying an NC30. I think I have covered pretty much all of the major issues, but your own additional research definitely can't hurt.

So, What's The Difference?

Headlamps on imported bikes dip the opposite way to those on UK bikes (for obvious reasons!) In saying this, I believe that the Japanese also drive on the left, so if you are importing from Japan you should be ok. If not, this must be sorted for you to legally ride the bike. You won't get an MOT certificate unless it has been done either.

Bulbs such as those in the indicators, headlamps and tail/brake lights are of different outputs on imported bikes. Bulb outputs should be as follows (UK Law):

(Haynes Service & Repair Manual)

UK Spec NC30’s have different headlamp relays designed for use with the listed bulbs. A second relay is also present for low beam, and the loom modified accordingly to accommodate this. At the rear of the bike there is a separate number plate lamp, lowering the number plate and requiring a different mounting bracket.

Japanese NC30's run on a different type of sparkplug to the UK version. You should check their condition when you get the bike. It is important that you buy the correct type. The owner manual that I have (for a UK Spec bike) recommends NGK ER9EH as standard, I believe, but am by no means sure, that sparkplugs on import bikes are NGK C8EH-9. Please confirm this with a dealership though; you could let me know if you find out too!

As indicated by the Carburettor ID’s in the first table, there are differences between the models fitted to UK Spec and Japanese NC30’s. The plastic sliders are replaced with metal items and the jetting is different. The jets used give the UK models a richer mixture. The exhaust is also identified with a different part number.

The Regulator/Rectifier unit fitted to the UK Spec models is a “heavy duty” item, readily identifiable by being larger than the unit fitted to Japanese bikes and having cooling fins. There are also some minor differences to the subframe to mount the Regulator/Rectifier unit. Also on the electrical side, the battery will be affected by the bike standing unused for a long period of time. If it is an old battery, the chances are you may need a new one. Plates disintegrate and electrolyte degrades over time until eventually the battery cannot hold its charge.

Japanese bikes have 180kph (112mph) speed restrictions imposed on them. The speed restrictor is a mechanical device in the Speedometer head unit, linked to the ignition unit. It works by cutting the ignition to the rear cylinders once the motorcycle reaches 112mph. It can be overridden by modifying the limiter mechanism or by using a plug-in box (available here). Opening the Speedometer head unit to remove the limiter mechanism does come with the risk of damaging the unit. This is not the same as the 33bhp restriction needed for the UK Category A Licenses. You'll need to convert your Speedometer to read in miles-per-hour. There are two methods of doing this. Either with a simple overlay directly onto the glass of the Speedo unit, or by changing the unit itself. Remember, if you do this your bike will be losing its true mileage. This is not illegal providing you state the true mileage whenever required, including if you sell the bike. Be sure to make a note of the original before you discard the old unit. If you use the overlay, don't forget when booking services etc that your Odometer is still in Kilometres.

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