Before reading the following, your attention is drawn to the Disclaimer.

As a point of interest, another notable difference between imported and UK bikes is the small oil radiator, found just beneath the headlamp fairing. You can just see it (left). Imports lack this, I'm not entirely sure why. The feed and return points from the lower crankcase are still cast, but are not opened up to take the pipes. In conjunction with this, the oil pump on UK Spec NC30’s was enhanced to provide the extra flow needed to supply the cooler. The pump operates over two circuits; one supplying oil to the cooler, the other to the engine.

If looking for replacement bodywork there are some additional differences worth noting. UK Spec bikes sport cutouts in the windshield (top) fairing for the front indicators, which are larger and mount on different brackets. The “chin” part of the windshield fairing is also cut deeper to accommodate the oil cooler radiator.

The bodywork around the rear lights (link between the two halves of the seat cowls) comes in two sections on UK bikes, leaving the middle of the rear lights unfaired. Japanese models have a single H-Piece, enclosing the rear lights completely.

Cosmetically, the mirrors are different between UK and Japanese spec bikes, although the mounts are identical. The mirrors fitted to UK NC30’s are the same style as those fitted to the RC30.

Most importantly, prior to you riding the bike, inspect the disc brakes carefully for damage. Also, check the calipers for sticking and the condition of the brake pads, the items fitted may be in a pretty poor state. I recommend good quality sintered pads (Brembo make some excellent items). If however, you prefer organic pads, then this is fine. Changing all of the fluids is advisable as the bike may not been ridden for some time. All of the fuel should have been drained from the fuel tank prior to shipping; it is not uncommon for fuel to be left in the carburettors though. If there is any remaining in the tank it should be drained off and disposed of safely.

 

The tyre sizes for the NC30 are 120/60-17 for the front and 150/60-18 for the rear. I have found that there are a few choices around when it comes to choosing tyres; the 18-inch rear wheel is the limiting factor. New tyres are advisable as, like the original brake pads, the original Japanese items are likely to be well worn and have probably suffered a bit during shipping. The tyres you have to choose from are:

I am currently using Bridgestone BT92's and have in the past run Dunlop GPR70's. There could well be a few other makes around that I have not come across yet. If I do, I'll add them on (e-mail me if you know of any others!!)

To register your bike, the Vehicle Registration Office will ask you for the following items: an MOT certificate and an Insurance certificate. On these two forms, the space for the registration number should have the chassis number of your bike instead. The Japanese Log book, V55/5 log book, road tax payment and a Customs & Excise clearance form will also be required.

What do I need to check?

These checks should be performed whether the bike is an import or not.

Clocks reading in Kilometres/Kilometres-per-hour are a pretty sure indication of an import. Commonly a miles-per-hour overlay is laid over the glass of the Speedometer. Remember the Odometer will still read in Kilometres, this is especially important when booking services etc. If your bike is an import, but it has a true miles/miles-per-hour Speedometer/Odometer, be advised that the old unit has been discarded. Ask the vendor for the true mileage. Whilst it is not an offence to change the unit, it is illegal to conceal the fact that this has been done (effectively the bike has been "Clocked").

Overall build quality is very high. There are a few things to look out for though. Although the exhaust system (on a standard bike) is stainless steel, it is worth checking the clamps that hold the two parts of the system together. There are two of them (one on each pipe), below the oil sump. They can corrode badly as they are not stainless steel and are exposed to the road. In the same area, check the suspension linkages for the rear shock, they are prone to corrosion.

Look carefully for signs of crash damage:

Worst-case scenario is a bent frame or sub-frame. Be wary of polished frames as well, it is sometimes done to hide damage. Frame straightness can be checked by placing a long piece of wood up against the wheels whilst the steering is straight. Look along the length of the piece of wood to check for straightness. The sub-frame is detachable and can therefore be replaced. It is very costly though. Frame damage usually equals write-off.

A lot of NC30's have been raced due to their highly competent track handling, just look at the entries for the TT Race to see what I mean! Signs of an ex-race bike include drilled oil sump plugs and filler caps (look for a small hole through either), non-road legal exhausts, badly chipped wheel rims caused by multiple tyre changes, excessively worn-down rubbers on foot pegs and bars, non-standard bodywork, or patchiness on the bodywork where sponsor transfers have been removed. The mileage shown on the clocks of a race bike may not be the true mileage either, as Speedo units are removed whilst racing.

Check the headrace bearings by getting someone to help you lift the front of the bike off of the ground. Turn the bars slowly from lock-to-lock and feel for any notchiness. Again, with the front wheel off of the ground, grab the forks from the front and push and pull backwards and forwards. There should be no ‘forward and back' motion of the forks. If you find either of these it means that the headraces will need adjusting or replacing. If you get a test ride, signs of worn out bearings include the bike wandering to the left or right, a clunk from the headstock when you brake, lots of bar shakes (NC30's are inherently very stable), sloppy steering or stiff heavy steering.

Whilst at the front of the bike, it is worth checking the lower radiator as its position makes it prone to clogging up.

Check the front fork legs for pitting and the seals for leaks. If you imported the bike, this can happen as salt air encountered during shipping can damage the rubber. Other times, blown fork seals are an indication of a wheelie-obsessed previous owner. In this instance, definitely go for genuine Honda seals, pattern replacements are not as good; they tend to be a very tight fit. If you are having trouble with soggy suspension, firstly try adjusting it (see Technical for suspension adjustment advice). If this does not solve your problem, then a change of fork oil and or new, stiffer, fork springs should sort things out. Fork oil degrades over time and loses its damping properties.

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