Before reading the following, your attention is drawn to the Disclaimer.

The rear shock absorber should also be checked for leaks. Other than this, the rear suspension needs very little attention as the roller bearings that the links pivot on have seals. The links themselves can corrode, so keep an eye on them (see Maintaining an NC30). Check the remote reservoir (right-hand side, behind the pillion foot peg) for signs of corrosion. DO NOT attempt to disconnect or disassemble it, it contains high-pressure Nitrogen gas. Like the front forks, the rear shock absorber is adjustable too. On high-mileage machines it may need replacing altogether. A replacement shock will set you back around £300-£400. Thankfully, it is a fairly sturdy piece of kit. Whilst at the rear of the bike, get someone to lift the rear wheel off of the ground. Check the swingarm for any side-to-side free play, there shouldn't be any. If there is, this is unfortunately a sign of worn swingarm bearings, a reasonably costly problem.

The V4 engine is a very robust design with added reliability from gear driven cams. If your bike is reading 24,000Km (16,000miles) or double these readings, get the valve clearances checked by your local dealership. This is reasonably expensive, due to the labour involved in getting to the valves. However it is less expensive than replacing burnt out valves. I would advise doing an oil change when you get the bike, unless you are told that it has already been done. This way, you know when it was last carried out. Use motorbike oil, not car oil. You need API grade SE, SF or SG motor oil with a viscosity of SAE 10W40 grade.

It is unlikely that an imported bike will have had the fuel drained from the carburettors prior to it being exported. During transport and standing, the fuel evaporates and leaves a deposit behind. This applies to any bike that has been left standing for a long period of time. This will cause the bike to run roughly and not tick over at a regular pace. The answer to this is to strip the carbs' and clean them thoroughly. If you have the experience and feel confident enough to DIY it then do so, by the end you will have plenty of practice at taking carbs' apart and reassembling them… you do have four to do! You will need to rebalance the carbs' afterwards. Whilst you are in the area, clean or replace the air filter.

If all of this checks out, and regular servicing is upheld (see Maintaining an NC30 for the servicing schedule), there is no reason why your NC30 shouldn't give you many miles of faithful service and pleasure.